The sun was shining, and I have a new car to try out, so Pat and I whizzed one junction down the motorway to Hardwick Hall. We’ve both
been before, but, on at least one occasion, that involved accompanying a group of
school children, itching to touch everything and desperate to eat their
sandwiches. We were a little bit better behaved than that, and had a great day
immersed in Tudor history.
Hardwick Hall is fascinating for anyone interested in
textiles. Most striking are the huge tapestries covering many of the stone
walls. These were purchased by the formidable Bess of Hardwick for colour and warmth
in the large rooms, but also as a symbol of her wealth and status. The tapestries are faded now, with patches and repairs in
places, which I found very evocative – a reminder that all artefacts have their
own history. Their fragile state means
that most of the rooms are kept quite dark, which makes photography difficult. However, the National Trust has loads of information here http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/place/hardwick-hall.
A squirrel hiding in the tapestry. Photo by Pat because I wasn't tall enough to get the camera angle. |
The tapestries are impressive in their size and workmanship,
and largely depict stories from the Bible. The figures are on a grand scale,
which personally I don’t find very appealing. I was much more inspired
by the Noble Women hangings, commissioned by Bess. These show strong women from
classical mythology such as Penelope and Lucretia, and symbolised Bess’s power,
wealth and education. Who could fail to be impressed! I was interested in the construction
of the hangings. They are made from
fabric taken from Medieval church garments, including velvet, satin, silk and
cloth of gold and silver. This has been cut up, appliqued and outlined with
gold and silver thread. The National
Trust is great about supplying detailed information about the hangings, their
meanings and their makers. http://www.nationaltrustcollections.org.uk/object/1129593.2
A grand four poster. |
The house is full of other rich textiles. I’ve always wanted to sleep in a four poster bed, and this one has gorgeous, heavy curtains. At the other extreme, there were colourful examples of proddy rugs in the
kitchens and servants’ quarters. And there is modern work on show as well. This
beautiful panel marks 400 years since Bess’s death. The portraits are very finely done, but I especially liked all the embroidered animals dotted
around.
The displays around Hardwick have been updated since I was
last here, and I loved the way information is now presented in a creative way using
fabrics and furnishings. Here’s a quote describing Lady Arbella Stuart
And rather less glamorous
Textiles are fragile, and there has been a concerted effort
to restore and preserve the precious collection at Hardwick. There is a wealth
of information on display to describe the construction of the pieces, and the conservation
that has taken place, right down to the identification of bugs that eat away at
the fabrics. It was great to see the examples of the back of the tapestries,
where the colours are less faded owing to the lack of exposure to light.
Comparing the back and the front of the tapestries |
There was also an
interesting exhibition about Evelyn, the last Duchess at Hardwick, who died in
1960. Evelyn was committed to the preservation of the textiles within the Hall,
and worked on the some of the tapestries herself. Her workbox was on display
too, a personal touch amongst all the grandeur.
Even a Duchess can have a messy workbox |